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🌿 RelaxedWeekend · from Cincinnati, OH

Holmes County Amish Country — Cheese, Buggies & the Backroads of Little Switzerland

A two-day immersion in the rolling farm country of Holmes County, Ohio, the heart of the largest Amish and Mennonite settlement in the world. Day one settles into Berlin and Millersburg, the twin hubs of the region, where cheese houses, furniture makers, quilt shops, and horse-drawn buggies set an unhurried nineteenth-century rhythm — and where a buggy ride through the countryside is the essential first act. The night is spent at a country inn among the fields. Day two follows the backroads south and east to the tiny hamlet of Charm and on to Sugarcreek, the self-styled Little Switzerland of Ohio with its Swiss-timbered storefronts and the world's largest cuckoo clock, before the drive back to Cincinnati. This is a slow-food, slow-travel weekend built around good cheese, handmade craft, and the quiet beauty of a landscape that still moves at the pace of a horse. Note: most Amish-owned shops, markets, and restaurants in Holmes County (including Der Dutchman, Keim, and Boyd & Wurthmann) are closed Sundays — plan shops and dining for Saturday and keep Sunday for scenic drives and open attractions.

Day 1 — Berlin & Millersburg: cheese, furniture & a buggy rideDay 2 — Charm, Sugarcreek & the Amish backroads
Day 1Berlin & Millersburg, OH

Day 1Berlin & Millersburg, OH

🚗 2 hr 30 min driving📍 4 stops
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Morning
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Drive
Cincinnati, OHBerlin, OH
2 hr 30 min8:00 AM10:30 AM
Heini's Cheese Chalet & Walnut Creek Cheese
Heini's Cheese Chalet & Walnut Creek Cheese
4.6
Holmes County's cheese houses are the natural first stop, and Heini's Cheese Chalet outside Berlin is among the best known, offering free samples of dozens of handmade cheeses — from mild Baby Swiss, the local specialty, to sharp cheddars and creamy Yogurt Cheese. A viewing window lets you watch cheesemakers at work on busy mornings, and the shop stocks Amish-made jams, meats, and baked goods to assemble a picnic. The surrounding countryside is dense with dairy farms whose milk feeds this centuries-old craft. It is a delicious, low-key introduction to the region's foodways and a fine place to stock a cooler for the weekend.
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Lunch
🍽️ Lunch11:30 AM
Boyd & Wurthmann Restaurant, Berlin
Boyd & Wurthmann Restaurant, Berlin
A Berlin institution since 1938, Boyd & Wurthmann is the quintessential Amish-country kitchen — a bustling, plain-tabled dining room serving hearty home cooking, hand-rolled noodles, roast beef, and a legendary case of pies baked fresh each morning. The menu leans on the German and Swiss roots of the community, with dishes like Swiss steak and broasted chicken alongside daily specials chalked on the board. Expect a friendly wait at peak times; the turnover is quick and the pie is worth it. It is the ideal midday anchor before the afternoon's buggy ride.
4.7$$restaurant📍 Maps →
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Afternoon
Amish Country Buggy Ride & Millersburg
Amish Country Buggy Ride & Millersburg
4.4
The essential Holmes County experience is a horse-drawn buggy ride through the working farm country, offered by several Amish and Mennonite operators around Berlin and Millersburg. Clopping along a back lane behind a standardbred horse, past white farmhouses, windmills, and fields worked with draft teams, does more to convey the rhythm of Amish life than any museum could. Afterward, the county seat of Millersburg rewards a stroll — its Victorian courthouse square, antique shops, and the grand Queen Anne Victorian House museum make an easy, pretty afternoon. The whole afternoon is deliberately unhurried, matched to the pace of the horses.
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Evening
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Berlin / Walnut Creek Country Inn
Spend the night at one of the many country inns and bed-and-breakfasts set among the fields around Berlin and Walnut Creek, several perched on hilltops with sweeping views over the patchwork farmland and its distant buggies. These inns tend toward comfortable, quiet rooms with rocking-chair porches, generous breakfasts, and an early-to-bed calm that suits the setting. A room facing west, looking out over the valley at sunset, is the one to ask for. Book ahead in autumn, when the harvest season and fall color draw the region's heaviest crowds.
Day 2Charm & Sugarcreek, OH

Day 2Charm & Sugarcreek, OH

🚗 3 hr driving📍 3 stops
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Morning
🚗
Drive
Berlin, OHCharm, OH
15 min8:00 AM8:15 AM
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Charm & Keim Family Market
The tiny crossroads hamlet of Charm lives up to its name — a cluster of Amish shops, a general store, and a harness maker set amid some of the prettiest farmland in the county. The nearby Keim Family Market is a destination in itself: an enormous Amish-run market and lumberyard selling handcrafted furniture, bulk foods, baked goods, and hardware, with a bakery whose fry pies and breads draw people from across the region. Browsing here, among Amish families doing their own shopping, is an authentic and unhurried pleasure. It is a fitting slow start to a day of backroads and small towns.
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Lunch
🍽️ Lunch9:15 AM
Park Street Pizza / Dutch Valley Restaurant, Sugarcreek
Park Street Pizza / Dutch Valley Restaurant, Sugarcreek
In Sugarcreek, the Dutch Valley Restaurant serves a hearty Amish-country buffet and menu of broasted chicken, real mashed potatoes, and homemade pie in a large, welcoming dining room popular with families and tour groups. For something more casual, Park Street Pizza turns out well-regarded pies in the walkable heart of town. Either makes a satisfying midday meal amid the Swiss-themed storefronts. The generous portions and homestyle cooking are entirely in keeping with the region's table.
4.8$$restaurant📍 Maps →
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Afternoon
Sugarcreek — Little Switzerland & the World's Largest Cuckoo Clock
Sugarcreek — Little Switzerland & the World's Largest Cuckoo Clock
4.6
Settled by Swiss immigrants, Sugarcreek leans cheerfully into its heritage as the Little Switzerland of Ohio, its downtown lined with alpine-timbered facades painted in bright Swiss motifs. The town's signature draw is the world's largest cuckoo clock, a whimsical machine whose figures dance and a band plays on the hour to the delight of onlookers. Swiss cheese shops, chocolatiers, and the region's celebrated Swiss festival traditions complete the picture. A relaxed hour wandering the storefronts and catching the cuckoo clock's performance is the perfect final flourish before the drive home takes you along more of the county's beautiful backroads.
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Evening
🚗
Drive
Sugarcreek, OHCincinnati, OH
2 hr 45 min5:00 PM7:45 PM
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